A Picture of Palestine

1. The Dead Sea

We float lazily in the thick and warm water, careful not to let our faces dip into the mineral concoction. The thick water restricts you from making sudden movements. You slowly learn patience, as you simply accept a lazy attitude. I had to learn patience while living in Palestine, and an attitude of ‘Inshallah’, roughly meaning ‘God willing’, and thus ‘we have no control over what will come’. As a foreigner you must learn to lie back – surrender – and take things as they come in order to participate with the lifestyle and culture of the people. Surprisingly, (between the numerous coffee, tea and humus breaks) things do get done.

The Palestinians within the West Bank cannot visit the sea, and they often told me as much. Perhaps because they are Mediterranean people who have lived close to the sea for millennia. Perhaps because it emphasizes how barricaded they are: within the walls of the occupation.

The Dead Sea, however, has parts open to both the Israeli and Palestinian public. I went there on four occasions. The first time was in Jordan. Jordanians (who are mostly Palestinians) must pay around sixteen dollars to swim in a tightly enclosed area of the sea. It’s restricted and closely monitored by the Israeli government in order to prevent people from crossing the border. And the people truly wish to cross the border. In Jordan, I befriended Palestinians who had lived in Jordan most of their lives. Although all of them were relieved to escape the suffocating atmosphere of Palestine, they missed their homeland. They wished to cross back to Palestine where they feel a connection to the land.

2. Dance in Ramallah

Ramallah is a very westernized city in the West Bank. Young women are more inclined to study rather than marry, and it’s easy to get swept up in the social life. Bars and cafes are crowded with active students and internationals. With Western luxuries, many can easily ignore the politics that pressure so many Palestinians in neighbouring villages or cities. One main concern for people here is the difficulty of getting permission to travel out of the West Bank, and then if they do, they’re left feeling more at a loss, as they realize how unjustified the conditions of their life are. I went with a few guys in their mid 20s to Jerusalem, and was surprised they wanted to visit the mall. While I sat bored, they were awe-struck by the traffic lights and clean streets. It was a massive culture shock for them, and they returned home frustrated with their lack of resources.

Ramallah is bursting with NGOs (Non-Government Organisations) and international volunteers learning about the Middle East (whilst living with their familiar luxuries). I offered to help out at a dance NGO in Ramallah. At this time, the streets of Ramallah were alight from day to night with miniature fires (which the police officers assured me were not a problem). Rallies of men would protest for economic reform, blocking the traffic in the city centre. Palestinian and Estonian volunteers ran the classes at the dance NGO. The classes promoted self-confidence and new forms of expression, which excited and inspired the students. Both the Estonians and Palestinians learnt English at school as a second language, which worked perfectly, as the Estonians spoke clearly and simply so the class could easily follow.

In the midst of economic downfall, many Palestinians within the NGO community were ignorant of the global economic crisis and had no clue that Estonia was undergoing a worse economic crisis than Palestine. The NGO I was working with was relying on volunteers to keep the organization afloat. It appeared to me that Palestinians in Ramallah have become accustomed to foreign aid and seem to expect it now. While they’re accustomed to it, feelings of helplessness increase and appear to be causing reliance. Effectively, many NGOs and charities patronise the people. It’s understandable, however, why foreign aid is sought. Their own government, the Palestinian Authority, is under Israeli domination, and cannot make decisions without Israel’s approval. Ultimately, West Bank residents feel politically powerless as well as geographically restricted.

3. Ramadan Kareem (Ramadan is generous)

Ramallah is a very westernized city in the West Bank. Young women are more inclined to study rather than marry, and it’s easy to get swept up in the social life. Bars and cafes are crowded with active students and internationals. With Western luxuries, many can easily ignore the politics that pressure so many Palestinians in neighbouring villages or cities. One main concern for people here is the difficulty of getting permission to travel out of the West Bank, and then if they do, they’re left feeling more at a loss, as they realize how unjustified the conditions of their life are. I went with a few guys in their mid 20s to Jerusalem, and was surprised they wanted to visit the mall. While I sat bored, they were awe-struck by the traffic lights and clean streets. It was a massive culture shock for them, and they returned home frustrated with their lack of resources.

Ramallah is bursting with NGOs (Non-Government Organisations) and international volunteers learning about the Middle East (whilst living with their familiar luxuries). I offered to help out at a dance NGO in Ramallah. At this time, the streets of Ramallah were alight from day to night with miniature fires (which the police officers assured me were not a problem). Rallies of men would protest for economic reform, blocking the traffic in the city centre. Palestinian and Estonian volunteers ran the classes at the dance NGO. The classes promoted self-confidence and new forms of expression, which excited and inspired the students. Both the Estonians and Palestinians learnt English at school as a second language, which worked perfectly, as the Estonians spoke clearly and simply so the class could easily follow.

In the midst of economic downfall, many Palestinians within the NGO community were ignorant of the global economic crisis and had no clue that Estonia was undergoing a worse economic crisis than Palestine. The NGO I was working with was relying on volunteers to keep the organization afloat. It appeared to me that Palestinians in Ramallah have become accustomed to foreign aid and seem to expect it now. While they’re accustomed to it, feelings of helplessness increase and appear to be causing reliance. Effectively, many NGOs and charities patronise the people. It’s understandable, however, why foreign aid is sought. Their own government, the Palestinian Authority, is under Israeli domination, and cannot make decisions without Israel’s approval. Ultimately, West Bank residents feel politically powerless as well as geographically restricted.